I just found it boring. I was also annoyed by the fact that there was so much descriptive detail about things that I didn't really care about, while some elements that might have interested me more were barely touched on, like the science involved. Tom's comments above about the downfalls of the epistolary frame are equally applicable to this book too.

Having said all that though, I will probably reread it at some point. I didn't like Moby Dick the first time I read it either, and it took me several tries before I was able to appreciate Shakespeare. Also, Frankenstein was required reading for me, and I always tend to like something less if it's forced on me.

I've never really thought of ranking all older books before, but I would probably have Candide at number one.